MEET

Everyone is a person of interest here — stories and profiles of the people who shape Troncones.

Elvis “Aikeke” Rose: Music is Vibration

BENITO VILA

When good teachers speak, you discover how much there is to learn

I met Aikeke in the street in the Centro in Zihuatanejo almost five years ago. He was outside his music school, waiting for a student. He struck me as an interesting guy, and I thought it odd that I would meet him. I don’t play music, but I like talking to teachers. Especially good teachers. They see and hear the world differently than most of us do. It turns out Aikeke has quite a number of students who live in Troncones. When I heard his school was having a recital at La Mexicana (April 4) and that he was struggling to make a higher rent, I went to talk to him. Googling him before going led me into a world of calypso, soca and reggaeton drumming I know nothing about. He’s clearly a master of those beats. And he really does hear the world differently. Meet Aikeke [AH-kī-kī].

Xochil Alvarez Saunier: I Feel Safe Here

BENITO VILA

28-year-old entrepreneur has found “home” for herself and created a destination for other women

When the curvy wall for El Muro in La Pequeña was being built nine years ago, people wondered “What is that?”. The construction took a different approach, its crews using superadobe bags to create the wall’s framework. That legacy of “a different approach” persists today with El Muro becoming a popular place for retreats, particularly for women. That movement is being led by a young lifestyle and hospitality entrepreneur who has made La Pequeña and El Muro “home”. Meet Xochil Alvarez Saunier.

Patricia Fernández Suárez: Mexico Surf Film Festival Director

BENITO VILA

Nine short questions, nine fun answers

I wanted to get some insight on the Mexico Surf Film Festival beyond press releases, research, facts and “official” interviews. I sent Patricia Fernández Suárez, the festival’s managing director, nine short questions by email. She responded with nine short answers, full of emotion, emojis and exclamation points. Nice. She also sent me a schedule of events. Perfect. Here’s how the festival sets up: 11 short surf films go up on the screen this Thursday in Playa La Saladita. 11 more do it Friday in Troncones. The judges’ finalists go for prizes Saturday in Zihua. A full schedule of activities for each day can be found below, after the interview.

Victoria Ryan: Let Yourself Be Led

William Mertz

A conversation with a friend

I’ve been friends with Victoria Ryan for quite a while. She has a house in Troncones called Casa Azul. The Blue House. It’s literally a blue house, on the hillside, near the clinic. Victoria is also the owner of Hotel Casa Encantada in Pátzcuaro [in Michoacán], a popular small-city destination for people curious about colonial Mexico. She also owns an apartment house in Pátzcuaro known as Casitas Pátzcuaro. I know her as an artist. She’s more than that. Like I said, she’s a friend and she’s a good person to meet.

Ventura Manzanares Garcia: "They Call Me Ventura"

BENITO VILA

After 50 years in Troncones, he’s become a fixture on Main Street and one of the last of his generation

He’s known in Troncones by one name. Ventura. You can find him on Main Street most days, on his ATV, between Materiales Troncones and his house next to the pharmacy. Sometimes you’ll see him covered in dust, coming back from checking on his cows south of town. At 80, he has more energy than people who are decades younger, and he’s one of the few “settlers” who came to Troncones as an adult, with a family. He remembers Troncones before electricity arrived, before there was a hardware store or a pharmacy, before his sons and daughters helped him build the Troncones of today.

Ana Aguilar Aguirre: Anitya

BENITO VILA

A New Generation Connecting to Saladita

When you know, you know. Ana Aguilar discovered Saladita on a surf trip after the first year of the pandemic. She’s stayed. She found a quality of life that matched her heart. A marine biologist, a sustainable farmer, a surf-wear entrepreneur and a yoga teacher, she’s become someone people look to for her experience, her creativity and her gentle way. She’s been embraced throughout Saladita as Anitya [pronounced “Anita”].

Caren Judith Díaz Rentería: La Comisaria

BENITO VILA

Working behind the scenes to make changes in her community

When a small bridge between Majahua and La Boca collapsed last winter, local officials made an appeal to La Unión for assistance. With no bridge, there was no way to go between Troncones and Saladita without going to the highway, which is a time-suck and a safety risk, especially for people on motorcycles. One official took charge of making sure all the procedures were followed and that La Unión made good on its promises. Meet Caren Judith Díaz Rentería, the comisaria of Brisas del Mar, who at 30, already knows the ins and outs of getting things done.

Arturo Ayala Maciel: Get Tranquilo

BENITO VILA

A national bodyboard champion talks about learning to surf, ocean safety and the competition he’s bringing to Troncones

I don’t know Arturo very well, but I see him in Troncones a lot. He’s the surf instructor with the mountain of surf boards on top of his taxi. He’s got good vibes. When Juan Suazo told me there was a bodyboard competition coming to Troncones, he sent me to Arturo to get more information. I knew Juan was a national champion. I didn’t know Arturo was one, too. Arturo said the event [March 21 and 22] was being organized by the municipal surf and rescue league of La Unión. I asked who I could talk to at the league. I found out he is the president.

Meta: The Real Mari Carmen Hernandez

BENITO VILA

A legendary international artist relies on Troncones for inspiration

I was wrong. When I first met Meta, the artist formerly known as Mari Carmen Hernández Álvarez, she came off as icy and distant. Little did I know, she was nervous about having so many people at her “sunset club” benefit for Las Hermanas. She rarely hosts large parties because people end up wandering through her sanctuary, her studio, where she’s created works that have found homes in museums and private collections. And her name? She signs her work in her initials and her quick MCHA looked like META to a gallery in Paris. The name Meta seemed like a way to stand out, decades before Facebook took it on and muddied its meaning. She answered my first question with a warm wit. The ice melted immediately.

Super Maria Solis: A Toda Madre

BENITO VILA

Troncones’ first comisaria owns the only store in town with two parrots and two ATMs

When it comes to grocery stores, Troncones has them all. Mini-súper. Miscelánea. Abarrotes. General stores selling snacks, fruits, beverages and household essentials. There are four on Main Street, from the top of the hill to the T. Of the four, only one has the same woman there, day after day. Meet Maria of Mini Súper de Maria. She’s glamorous. She’s funny. She’s serious. She’s kind. She’s real. She’s watching you even when you think she’s not.

William Mertz: Artist & Naturalist

BENITO VILA

Whether it’s a bird, a spider or a snake, there’s one guy to go to in Troncones who knows exactly what you’ve got; it’s likely he has a drawing or a photo of the one he found

I first “met” William through Facebook on the original Troncones-Let’s Chat. He was the administrator of that group as it grew rapidly in the late 20-teens and early 20-twenties. There were a few members who wouldn’t play nice. William shut it down—not the few members—he shut down the whole group. People wouldn’t be kind, so he put an end to his being a part of it; he put an end to anyone being subjected to nonsense. I liked that.

DEWEY McMILLIN: ESCAPE TO TRONCONES

BENITO VILA

He came, he saw, he got away from it all and made a difference

He’s smooth. Even his name is smooth. Dewey McMillin. Like a fine blended scotch or a big wave surfer. Dewey McMillin. It’s a name that holds reverence. Especially here in Troncones. It’s widely acknowledged Dewey is responsible for the development of 21st-century Troncones, helping the community attract homeowners from around the world, transforming an isolated village into a legendary destination. In 2019, at Troncones’ annual February Expo Feria (carnival), the community celebrated Dewey’s commitment and tireless work in bringing in the essential infrastructure—for roads, electricity, water—that wasn’t here before. His selling of beachfront lots, in partnership with the community, also brought in jobs—the construction, maintenance and service work needed to sustain a growing resort, and that assure on-going opportunities for local families. A profile of Dewey in The Wall Street Journal, from January 6, 2000, opens with “Former Alaska fisherman Dewey McMillin has done something unique in the world of Mexican beachfront development. He’s made everyone happy.” It also quotes Dewey describing how to create success in business here, saying, “The trick is not to leave your brain at the border.” That’s his kind of smooth.

Jesús Santana Morales: Coach Chucho

BENITO VILA

A talented Troncones-born athlete passes on lessons to the next generation

“How you play the game is how you do everything” is something coaches say. Whether that’s true or not clearly depends more on the individual than on the task at hand. What is true is that coaching kids is a privilege. Good coaches understand that—that coaching is an opportunity to teach kids how to be good teammates, how to prepare each other to get through difficult situations and how to make sure no one feels left behind. Coach Chucho is a good coach.

Bill Landrum: A Dancer’s Way

Linda Purl

The award-winning choreographer reflects on his career, and why he loves Troncones so much

1974, Los Angeles. If you were in the world of performance, you would have heard of the already legendary dancers, Bill and Jacqui Landrum. Between them as performers, they’d done it all, from Beirut to Paris to Broadway. As teachers and directors of their own dance company, they held class regularly at The Coronet Theatre in West Hollywood, where floor space was at a premium. Having finally gathered my courage to attend, I found myself in their class one day. I’d been told they were sparklingly original if demanding teachers, who would ground you in dance as no other teachers could. What I’d not been told was that they were also two of the most beautiful people. Ever. To say that taking class with the Landrums was a life changing experience is not an exaggeration. Ask anyone who has studied under them. I was no exception. Because his Troncones home is called Casa Bailarin [house of the dancer], I thought that to start this interview by asking about dance, and Bill’s journey in it, seemed as good a place as any to begin.

Doña Matilde: It Wasn’t Easy

BENITO VILA

The move to Troncones required a lot of patience and work—there was nothing here

Life was hard for the families who were re-settled here in 1976 by the governor of Guerrero. No houses. No water. No work. Somehow, they made it through and created a village that’s known for its determination and tranquility. Enedino Sanchez told me Doña Matilde knew the stories of how that came to pass. I went to see her. Members of her family were there when I interviewed her. I was nervous about having them listen. I was glad when they joined in.

Corky Carroll: Stoked

BENITO VILA

The world’s most famous surf instructor now lives and paints in Ixtapa

Surfer. Musician. Artist. Writer. Designer. Announcer. Teacher. Talents many aspire to. How about being the first pro surfer? Or having your first album become a benchmark for surf music? Or being part of one of the most famous ad campaigns ever? Miller Lite’s “Tastes Great, Less Filling”. And loving it all. That’s Corky Carroll. He’s been “out there, on it” since the early 1960s, doing what he needs to do to make a living. To the rest of us, it looks like fun. Bitchin. Crazy. Cool. And it was, until his heart gave him trouble. That’s when Corky had to give up a good life in Saladita. What’s a seventy-some-year-old guy to do? Paint? Sell his work online? What?

Barbara Lindlan: Always a Teacher

BENITO VILA

The founder of the Troncones Primary School library looks back at finding her way

You gotta interview Barbara Lindlan. You gotta interview Barbara Lindlan. I kept hearing that over and over again. But no one could really tell me why, other than that she’d started the first library in Troncones. I’ve never been so unprepared for an interview. Barbara doesn’t show up on the Internet. There’s no history to read. No pictures on Google. When I finally met her, I was struck by her energy, and not just her physical presence and fitness. Her vitality and her curiosity are boundless. She started asking me questions before I ever got to ask her one. I had no idea she was 90. And now I know why I had to interview her.

Isael Vega: Doing It

Linda Purl

Local artist and athlete makes the most of his opportunities—and goes to dental school

I met Troncones’ native son Isael Vega about five years ago, when he was 20 and I’ve had the privilege of watching his life move forward at the speed of light since that time. His renaissance-like journey fascinates me…to say he is firing on all cylinders is an understatement. I wanted to know something of the inside track of his thinking and he kindly agreed to sit down for a chat. Here goes…

WINTER RAMOS: MAN ABOUT TOWN

BENITO VILA

Looking at the ins and outs of real estate and life in Troncones from the beach

Wherever you go, there he is. Winter Ramos. A man on the go in a place where it’s hard to get almost anything done. One day, I saw him on his motorcycle in La Boca in the morning, then, sitting with a group of people at Pacifico in Troncones mid-day and, later on, shopping with his kids in Zihuatanejo that same afternoon. Maybe we have the same interests? Maybe similar schedules? Maybe, but I don’t run a restaurant, a hotel and the largest real estate company in town. It’s no wonder he speaks in short sentences. He saves his energy for doing other things.

Ilianet Nuñez Valdovinos: Surfing Queen

BENITO VILA

The youngest girl in the Saladita surf becomes a woman people look up to

Mother, wife, restaurant owner, social media star. Those are all roles Saladita’s Ilianet Nuñez Valdovinos wakes up to every morning, but the truth is she’s heading to the beach to surf. That’s where she’s expected. Her people are waiting for her.

C.J. Ananda Page: The Present Moment

BENITO VILA

An internationally acclaimed teacher/guide looks to her past, present and future

Troncones’ Present Moment, the “yoga hotel” on the beach road, recently celebrated its 20th anniversary. I caught up with co-founder C.J. Ananda Page while she was here last month, gathering with her teachers and students. I stopped by their celebration and found C.J. firmly being one of the group, another person seated at a round table. No crown. No fanfare. No head of the table. A few days later, we sat together on the beach at Present Moment. She’s still an owner. She likes it here. She may be coming back.

Enedino Sánchez: Master Gardener, Quiet Hero, the spirit of troncones

BENITO VILA

Anytime you admire a garden in Troncones, chances are it’s been touched by the hands of Enedino Sanchez. Anytime you go to a fundraiser in Troncones for someone in need, chances are he’s one of the organizers.

As the owner of a picturesque vine-covered laundromat set in the middle of an always-in-bloom nursery, Enedino Sanchez is well-known in Troncones, Truth is, he’s counted on for more than clean clothes and big bougainvillea. A member of the church, an advocate for public transportation, education and water management, and a caregiver to his family and neighbors, Enedino embodies the spirit of service that’s needed for a small town to thrive. His commitment and dedication have helped shape and sustain the character of Troncones.

J. Santos Jaime Sánchez: More Lessons

BENITO VILA

Part Two

In Part One, Santos took us through his upbringing, how he made his way into education through a lot of hard work and little bit of good luck. He’d grown up poor, the son of a fisherman, and he wanted to have steadier economic circumstances for himself and his own family. Not only did Santos become a teacher, and a fixture in the Troncones Primary School for 25 years, he’s also recently earned his doctorate in education. He has a unique perspective on education and culture in Mexico.

J. Santos Jaime Sánchez: Lessons Learned

BENITO VILA

Part One

Good teachers are easy to learn from. They inspire you; they get you to think about the world differently; they make the learning fun; they set you off, curious to learn more. That’s Santos. When Aura wanted to take Spanish lessons, Santos arrived at our house carrying dominoes and a deck of cards. He doesn’t speak English, but he knows playing encourages connection, communication and conversation. He also knew that by talking over a game, he would discover what Aura needed to learn, where he needed to guide her. Santos is currently working in school administration in Coyuca de Benítez, four hours away, but he still lives in Troncones. He doesn’t want to leave.

NICO SAUCEDO: GYM IS LIFE

BENITO VILA

A life-long passion becomes a way of connecting in Saladita

It came out of nowhere, a gym, the Hacienda Plaza ground floor being expanded, with brand-new weightlifting and workout equipment coming in. The logo appeared, a stylized “Mana”, and then the people came, jumping, lifting, carrying, stretching, doing burpees and planks, by themselves, with trainers. People of all ages, all sexes, every complexion. It looked like a cool sports camp. I asked, “Who’s running this?” That’s when I first heard the name, “Nico”.

Fanny Rivera Plascencia: For Modern Healing

BENITO VILA

The wisdom of the ages, cures made from plants, treatments relied on for centuries, right here in Troncones

She walks with a cane, her knee destroyed in a motorcycle accident more than a decade ago. There’s no telling how old she is. When Fanny smiles, she looks younger than her grown daughters, even if her gait leaves her looking older than she is. Her age doesn’t matter. You can tell she knows something you don’t. That’s why you’ve come to see her.

Ligita Lapé: Following Cacao

AURA WINARICK

A world traveler comes to Troncones and stays to share her passion for chocolate-making

Cacao. It’s “kuh·kau”, a tree, native to South America, that produces a pod containing seeds, or “beans”, which for over 7000 years have been harvested, heated and transformed into beverages and foods, liquors and chocolates. Its scientific name, Theobroma cacao, is Greek for “food of the gods”, a reflection of the bean’s place in Mexico’s Mayan and Aztec culture where it was considered a gift from the gods, where its use was typically reserved for special occasions, weddings and ceremonies. Among many of Mexico’s indigenous tribes, cacao as a dried bean became a currency, its value and status plainly understood. Cacao. It’s nourishment. It’s medicine. It’s an essential. It’s a luxury. It’s comforting. It’s over-stimulating. It’s earthly. It’s sacred. It’s everyday. It’s special. It’s complicated. Ligita Lapé and her Troncones-based brand Tribu Del Cacao, caught my eye on Instagram before I happened to meet her for the first time at Jahvé, the vegetable and fruit store just south of the T. Ligita knows the complexities of cacao first-hand, as a maker, artist and brewer and as someone who’s sure cacao speaks to her, as a guide, a co-conspirator and a source of inspiration. We sat down together in her treehouse-like apartment in early September and talked about how she was drawn to cacao’s magic.

AMANDA HARRIS: ORGANIC FARMER

AURA WINARICK

Bringing new ways, new foods and new life to people along the Costa Grande

Led by Amanda Harris, Gente Viva is a local permaculture farm focused on sustaining the land, the aquifer and the watershed. It’s changing food culture throughout Guerrero. Founded on agroecological principles, Gente Viva farms approximately 10 hectares set in a tranquil coastal plain about 40 minutes south of Troncones. Amanda’s field team makes use of regenerative practices, composting systems, passive rainwater harvesting, as well as age-old concepts like sembrando agua (planting water), to nourish both soil and community.

ELFI TEUTSCH: HAPPY ENTREPRENEUR

BENITO VILA

On-the-go, in and out of the water, making a joyful life

A could-be-anywhere free spirit, Elfi Teutsch chose Troncones as the place to be. Or, perhaps, Troncones chose her. Whichever way that goes, the first time I met Elfie was in the surf, the two of us sharing a large wave, stoked and laughing at our two-person “party wave”. Later, when I needed a board repaired, when I ran out of sunscreen; when I didn’t have any dog treats and when I was at La Cervicheria Troncones wondering what a vegetarian could eat, each time Elfi was there, connecting me to exactly what I needed. There’s no accident in all that–she repairs boards, makes sunscreen, bakes dog treats and helps out at La Cervicheria. Elfi also shapes boards. She’s a creative hands-on business maker and a fixture on the Troncones surf scene.

MEET

Elvis “Aikeke” Rose: Music is Vibration

Xochil Alvarez Saunier: I Feel Safe Here

Patricia Fernández Suárez: Mexico Surf Film Festival Director

Victoria Ryan: Let Yourself Be Led

Ventura Manzanares Garcia: "They Call Me Ventura"

Ana Aguilar Aguirre: Anitya

Caren Judith Díaz Rentería: La Comisaria

Arturo Ayala Maciel: Get Tranquilo

Meta: ​​The Real Mari Carmen Hernandez

Super Maria Solis: A Toda Madre

William Mertz: Artist & Naturalist

DEWEY McMILLIN: ESCAPE TO TRONCONES

Jesús Santana Morales: Coach Chucho

Bill Landrum: A Dancer’s Way

Doña Matilde: It Wasn’t Easy

Corky Carroll: Stoked

Barbara Lindlan: Always a Teacher

Isael Vega: Doing It

WINTER RAMOS: MAN ABOUT TOWN

Ilianet Nuñez Valdovinos: Surfing Queen

C.J. Ananda Page: The Present Moment

Enedino Sánchez: Master Gardener, Quiet Hero, the spirit of troncones

J. Santos Jaime Sánchez: More Lessons

J. Santos Jaime Sánchez: Lessons Learned

NICO SAUCEDO: GYM IS LIFE

Fanny Rivera Plascencia: For Modern Healing

Ligita Lapé: Following Cacao

AMANDA HARRIS: ORGANIC FARMER

ELFI TEUTSCH: HAPPY ENTREPRENEUR

Meta: The Real Mari Carmen Hernandez