A Troncones Challenge

I challenge you. Everything you need is right here; you just have to know where, and when, to look. Shopping locally takes curiosity, a little flexibility and the willingness to follow a truck.

JAHVÉ: THE BEATING HEART OF GROCERIES

When I mentioned Jahvé recently to someone who has been coming to Troncones for nearly 20 years and they hadn’t heard of it, I was shocked.  What started a few years ago as a humble fruit and vegetable stand on Main Street has quietly grown into Troncones’ closest thing to a specialty supermarket—a beautifully packed store hiding in the open, south of the T, with little signage and a dirt floor. The friendly family vibes, the professionalism and the diversity of what’s on the shelves and crates add to the romance.

Lizeth and her parents have turned Jahvé into a wonderland of everyday and unexpected finds, including local fruits and vegetables, dairy, organic eggs, cereals, beans, dried fruit, nuts, a variety  of chocolates and coffee. If they don’t have what you’re looking for, Lizeth will try to find it for you. She knows the importance of organic and healthy foods and that shows. She also appreciates finding new things and supporting local makers and farmers.

On a good day, you might stumble on to-die-for hand-churned Mennonite butter from Chihuahua, fresh diakon, watermelon radishes or curious yellow-brown cucumbers that are amazing, and lots of other small-batch treasures that’ll make you wonder why you ever drove to Sam’s.

OTHER HIDDEN GEMS

There’s no shortage of corner stores [tiendas] around town, each comes with its own quirks and loyal followings.

María’s, the biggest tienda, is also “home” to the town’s only ATM as well as to a parrot couple named Juan and Maria. The store has a little bit of everything. You’ll find a human Maria behind the counter, selling a perfectly thorough mix of organic fruits, vegetables, beans, eggs, whole wheat tortillas and sometimes cool exotics, like fermented black garlic or hand-made almond butter and peanut butter from Saladita [more on that below], along with an abundant selection of basic food staples and household goods. Fun fact: Maria was Troncones’ first female commisaria in 2011.

Gaby’s, the oldest tienda in town, has all the staples packed in a small space —from beer and water to beans and rice, fresh fruit, candies, household supplies and, of course, chips and beach balls. Gaby’s grandson, Fernando, is in charge now. The store is open every day from 6:30 am to 9 pm.

Ernestina’s, on the beach road, next to Mi Jardin, often has organic chicken eggs and sometimes has delicious duck eggs. You'll see the ducks and chickens running around. Sometimes those eggs aren’t on the counter. You gotta ask. Ernestina’s daughter-in-law, Nancy, a baker at the legendary Café Sol, bakes and sells incredible cookies and tarts- look in the mini fridge and get there early because the secret is out. There’s always an odd surprise, like this week, when I found pickled white asparagus and artichoke hearts nestled between the chips and the soda.

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TORTILLAS, FISH & MEAT

For tortillas—You would think you can buy tortillas almost anywhere. That’s not true, but there are options. I like the large whole-wheat ones from Maria’s and Jahvé to make sandwich wraps or quesadillas at home. But for the real deal visit Tortillaria Troncones on the second street where you can watch the machine spit out steaming rounds by the kilo. You’ll find the twin sons of owner Arturo, Jose Luis and Jose Arturo manning the shop as dad makes deliveries all over town.

For fish—There are two markets in town, Sofkey and Janna's, on the same block of Main Street. For an off-hour hack, head to the back of El Gordo's taco stand, the one with the octopus mural, and holler—someone there will sell you frozen shrimp, lobster, crab or octopus straight from the cooler.

Janna, who sells fish, also sells chicken and eggs. And sometimes a guy from Lagunillas rolls through town with chicken in the trunk of his car. [Yep, you read that right.] He has chorizo and queso fresco, too. If you see some people gathered around the open trunk of a car, you might want to check it out

For meat—This also takes a little exploring. There is a new butcher on Main Street called Dos Amigos Carniceria. And Jahvé often has a variety of frozen meats and chicken. And Margarito, who prepares carnitas in front of the Catrina mural on Main Street every Saturday and Sunday, takes custom orders for special pork cuts all week by Whatsapp. You can make arrangements for delivery, or pick them up in-person on the weekend.

BREAD, COFFEE & SWEET THINGS

Good bread is everywhere now. It wasn’t always that way.

Delizia serves the best croissants in town, and offers other baked goods and strong coffee. Don’t miss a delicious sandwich or a special dinner too - Ask Eduardo for details

Indigo has a great micro-bakery with breads, cakes and tarts—alongside gelato, cheese and wine.

Cuattro is another serious bakery, putting out muffins, cookies and breads, plus good coffee and full service breakfast and lunch.

Pacifico stocks its own breads, muffins, cookies and gelato, from early morning to mid-afternoon.

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MARKETS & TRUCKS

Fridays bring the fruta y verdura market to Troncones’ basketball cancha, stocked with produce from Lázaro Cárdenas—colorful, cheap and fresh.

On Thursdays, Tres Mujeres Hotel hosts a “farmers’ market” that’s more artisan-leaning, but occasionally features local produce from Gente Viva and others. You might find Patti LiIy there with her vegan kimchi and lunches. And sometimes, there’s a woman selling curries and Indian dishes.

On Tuesdays, Cooperativa Troncones is at Lobo del Mar, featuring local food and craft makers. Go regularly for surprise goodies, like, locally-made flavored Mezcal, salsas and more.

And of course, there’s the fruit truck—which once was the town’s main food source before Jahvé came around. Listen for its horn and grab what looks best. Once upon a time, not so long ago, people used to put signs outside their homes reading frutas, indicating they needed the fruit truck to stop by.

In La Saladita, Hacienda Plaza hosts the Tianguis, a farmers’ market, in its parking lot every Friday. It’s worth a stop if you’re nearby. La Esquina, the shop inside Hacienda Plaza carries a decent selection of groceries, organic eggs, dried fruits, nuts and ice cream, every day. There’s also an ATM there.

There’s also a small farmstand on the road to Saladita, just outside Los Llanos, selling flowers and cucumbers, proof that food grows closer than you think. When you walk inside, you’ll discover a gorgeous flower patch and a few random vegetables, along with some nice plants. All for sale.

Out of Saladita is Christopher Aburto León—a surfer who makes coconut oil, fresh peanut butter and fresh almond butter. Those are on sale at Jahvé and Maria’s in Troncones.

Don't forget to place your orders for Gente Viva Canastas for beautiful greens, fruits, herbs and other special items.

THE PLEASURE OF STAYING LOCAL

Once you learn the rhythm—which day the trucks pass, when the tortillas are warm, who sells the freshest fish—you’ll realize there’s no reason to drive into Zihua to walk around a warehouse store that plays too loud music. Yes, shopping locally is slower, but it connects you to the local people, the subtle seasons and lots of stories. Every mango and croissant, every kilo of tortillas, will start to come with a face you’ll recognize.

Also keep in mind, when you shop locally, every peso goes directly to the families who are handing you what you’re after.