BENITO VILA

Benito Vila is a writer with a background in marketing, publishing and graphic design. Today, he balances his poetry, landscape design, property management work with the editorial direction of La Onda Troncones. He is also a co-founder of Los Vecinos, a group of neighbors joined together to support the community living between Majahua and La Boca.

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Maria Fernanda Nava Merino, the Surf Witch

Maria Fernanda Nava Merino: Surf Witch

La Onda’s social media director looks back at her last year and to what’s ahead for Troncones—and reveals some of the magic of the Tarot

When we started planning interviews for La Onda Troncones last year, Aura asked me to put “The Surf Witch” on my list. One day there was an art workshop and tarot reading going on at Quetzal, and Aura said, “That’s her!” That’s who? When we started to plan out how La Onda would roll out its social media, Aura said, “We have to talk to this woman who lives in Troncones, who I follow on Instagram. She’s got a yoga studio, she’s doing tarot collages and she’s a graphic designer.” Ok, sure. When we met, I had no idea the person in front of me was someone I would be talking to almost every day for the next year—and that she was about to build a house and become a mom—and that she was the Surf Witch, too. Who is she? She’s in my phone as “Fer”. Aura has her as “Maria”. Meet Maria Fernanda Nava Merino. We couldn’t have done La Onda Troncones without her.

Don Fernando: Tire Repair in Lagunillas

He’s open every day, patching up the trouble the road gives you

Nails, screws and pieces of rebar. A few hazards of the road in our area. Sometimes old construction debris is used to fill holes and trenches. It does the job but that mix is not always only concrete. That’s happened twice recently, my driving over some fill and coming away with something in my tire. I also had a construction project near me this summer. I took two nails before found another way home. Did I buy new tires? No, I went to Lagunillas to Don Fernando. He patches up tires in about 20 minutes, working like an efficient surgeon, finding the source of your pain, extracting it and getting you back on the road. The spiritual significance of a flat tire is that it’s a message to slow down. You have to do that when you’re with Don Fernando. And when you find yourself with him more than once, you can discover a lot. I’ve found his wife drinks Coca-Cola and he likes Corona Light, but there’s more to him than that. Meet Don Fernando Ramírez Pompa.

Ramón Carranza Valdez: Come See Us

Fisherman and farmer takes a look at Majahua, 1980 to today

Ramón was working his fishing line when I found him one Sunday. He’s like that. He’s not someone who sits idle. We have a table at home Ramón cut from a tree that fell on his mountain property. He took a “bad” thing and made something good out of it. That’s the Ramón I know. When I first met him in 2012, I was told Ramón knew everything about Majahua. He’d been in The New York Times talking about sharks, fishing and tourism a few years before. That led some people to say he was an “expert”. Ramón’s not like that. I know him to be observant and curious, not someone who needs to share his opinion or be the center of attention. Even when I started to ask him questions about how Majahua developed, Ramón insisted he might not be the right person to talk to, that there were already 12 houses here before him. But living in the middle of the village for almost 46 years does give him some credibility and perspective. Meet Ramón Carranza Valdez.

Pato Azulita: Ernesto Leon Sandoval

Artist, environmentalist, teacher, student and free-thinker

A surf triptych—a mermaid Reina de Mar, a happy cross-step nose-rider in a bikini, a beaming Guadalupe in front of her boards—a painting hanging on a fence in the old Café Pacifico. The name Pato Azulita was tiny in the right corner. “Who’s that?” There was no time to find out. I was on vacation. That was 2014. I heard the name Pato again in 2022 when someone described art classes being offered by Playa Limpia, Troncones’ grassroots environmental program. It turns out it was the same Pato. Another four years of seeing Playa Limpia signs around town—signs saying things like, “Compasion Ecologica”, “Ama Tu Playa” and “Cuida Tu Pueblo, No Tires Basura”—and I finally got to sit down with Pato. I finally got to know, “Who’s that?” Meet Pato Azulita.

Kimberly Kovel: Always a Beginner

A team-builder and innovator puts her professional skills to work for the benefit of Troncones

I first met Kim Kovel at Indigo, two tables next to each other blending into one conversation. I knew she was a rare bird right away. From New York. Fast-talking. On her own in Troncones. Missing her college-age kid. Likes to surf. Fan of the Grateful Dead. Jewish. Community-minded. Curious about everything. And modest. It was months later I learned Kim’s a creative force, an innovator and a team-leader who helped a Portland, Oregon sneaker company build its product lines and expand its brand worldwide. What’s she doing here? Besides creating a way to capture rainwater at her house? And passionately doing at least six other things? Maybe changing how you think about medical care in Troncones? Meet Kim Kovel.

Peter Max-Müller: We’re More Social Here

A stylist, designer and entrepreneur reveals the mysteries behind Casa Saint George and what he does when he gets to Troncones

I saw the wall go up. We all did. A good 4 meters tall, sand-colored, with a wide, arched entryway. What is it? A house? A hotel? When I looked at it from out in the water, whatever it was was even more mysterious. Its design blended into the sand and the palm trees, and made it somewhat invisible. And then the name went up on the street: Casa Saint George. And with it came a huge triple-bar cross. All very goth, all very different—at least for Troncones. After it was open a while, I heard about the nightlife there being interesting, that a younger crowd was coming to the beach-and-poolside bar. I went to see what Casa Saint George was all about one afternoon, and when I walked in and immediately felt like I’d found a sanctuary, something out of Miami Beach or a Hollywood spy movie, an elegant cool. Who was behind this? I had to know. Meet Peter Max-Müller.

Peri Wolfman: Just Do It

A trend-setting designer moves to Troncones, renovates a house and opens a store

Black and white. Everything black and white. Is that even possible? I first met Peri Wolfman more than 15 years ago by way of a magazine, her Bridgehampton summer house appearing among the fashion stories. Everything in the house was black and white, even Peri. She had on black and white clothes, and had mostly white hair. I later met her in person, in New York and again in Troncones. And, yes, each time she had on black and white clothes. Even her dogs were black and white. To say she’s unusual would miss the mark. Peri’s a distinct flavor, unique, just like her color choices. She’s specific, practiced and sophisticated. She’s also joyful and youthful. At 86 years old, she moves, thinks and talks as if she’s maybe 66. Early last month, I found myself listening to a woman in Saladita talking about Peri’s vitality and energy. A week later, I overheard another woman saying the same thing in Majahua. They both wanted to know her secret. When I went to interview Peri at her house in Troncones, I thought I’d start there.

Ángel Dosal Amandi: I Am Happier Here

There’s more to every story, including the ones about the origins of Troncones

There’s no written history of Troncones. I didn’t set out to put one together but every time I talk to someone about their life here, I learn something new. Here, you’ll meet Ángel Dosal, who lives next to the church. He’s been here since 1968. All my previous interviews have been with residents who arrived in 1976—part of a community relocation project prompted by Ruben Figueroa, the governor of Guerrero—60-some people being moved to Troncones from Infiernillo, near La Salitrera. After this interview, Ángel and I went on a little tour to Troncones’ original freshwater wells, located not too far from today’s Main Street. They’re dry most of the year now, occasionally coming to life in the rainy season. In going up there, Ángel recalled fishing in Manzanillo Bay and only taking one fish a day—that it was all you needed. No electricity. No refrigeration. No taking more than you could eat that day. That’s a history worth remembering. Life before “the invasion”.

Maggie Miles: Good Trouble

A journalist comes to Troncones looking to get away, only to make meaningful connections for herself and her work

Mutual friends introduced me to Maggie Miles in October, a former New York Times reporter on her way to her next assignment. She seemed to be another young person passing through Troncones. I was wrong. Maggie stayed. I kept seeing her around and I kept hearing she’s doing her work from here. That intrigued me. How does she do it? How does she sustain her career remotely? From Troncones? As we got up from this interview, I noticed the words “GOOD TROUBLE” tattooed on her forearm. I asked her what that phrase referred to. Maggie explained it came from a series of speeches made by American congressman and civil rights activist John Lewis—a phrase born of his refusal to stay silent in the face of injustice—a reminder that making “good trouble” can encourage social change. Good trouble. After talking to Maggie, I can see how she’s doing that, through her writing work and with her choice to call Troncones “home”.

Jorge Valencia Guzman: A Young Man and the Sea

A local fisherman and guide talks about growing up on Playa Saladita

I could’ve stayed all day listening to Jorge Valencia talk about the Playa Saladita he knows. Not the one the surfers know. Not the one Instagram knows. Not the one that’s being hyped up as being “the spot”. Jorge’s family started making its home in Playa Saladita in the late 19th century, right along the beach, when no one wanted to be near the ocean, when the area was considered undesirable. After our interview, Jorge described some of the ridicule he took on as a kid—being called “poor” because he walked around barefoot—living beachfront, wild, without much of anything. Even then, he didn’t see the value in getting “dressed up”, not when he was living in a dusty place and he was going in the ocean four times a day. Today, things are different. People come from all over the world to be on the Playa. His brother Benito and his sister Lourdes run successful restaurants that have become local landmarks, and his famous “surf fishing” house is an easy find—a mural by MuckRock adorns its back wall, a nine-foot-tall Jorge holding his catch. And fishing outfitters send him their latest gear and sportswear. Jorge still walks around barefoot.

José García Callejas: Pelón

The artist and biker has his brothers coming to see him this weekend

A tattoo parlor opened in Troncones, near the T, about three years ago. I’ve heard nothing but good things about it. So much so, I’m thinking about getting another tattoo. Aura heard there was a motorcycle rally coming to town. A little checking around led her to Chuy [Jesús Santana Morales] and “the guy from the tattoo parlor”. Well, I’ve already interviewed Chuy and I’m thinking about getting another tattoo—so, what’s the guy’s name? Pelón. Doesn’t that mean hairless, bald? Yes, but he’s not bald. Meet Pelón.

Sandy López Ayala: Proud Mama

In Troncones, students have to leave town to get the education they want—that makes being a kid and being a mother a challenge—but that can also be a joy

“It takes a village” is an old expression recognizing that a child’s upbringing is a community effort. That it takes more than just family and school. That expression is also true when it comes to finding the right mother to talk to about raising children in Troncones. I talked to a lot of people about whom I should interview. Those conversations led me to Sandy Lopez, whose teenage son Henry recently won an award for an academic achievement no one could describe to me. Many people knew it was in a specific subject, but not exactly which one. It turns out I know Sandy—she’s our landlord. She owns Casa Sandy, on the north side of the bridge, where the La Onda Troncones office is. She also knows what it takes to be a kid here, what it takes to be a mother here and what it takes to make a life here. Meet Sandy.

Arturo De La Barrera: A Farmer’s Philosophy

Change is hard, but it’s inevitable—and a change is coming to Saladita as the old and the new come together at Las Huertas Farm

At the back of the Friday farmer’s market at Hacienda Plaza, you’ll find a tall guy with a wide-brim hat standing at a table labeled Las Huertas. That’s Arturo De La Barrera, one of the kindest people you’ll ever meet. Don’t let his intensity or his shyness fool you. Anyone who’ll take the time to make the hard clays of Saladita into better soil has to be patient, disciplined and exceptionally kind. Arturo’s growing organic produce and he’s experimenting with crops that’ve never been grown here before. He discovered farming when he wanted to learn how to better care for himself. Now, through the work he’s doing at Las Huertas Farm, Arturo’s looking to teach what he’s learned and create a different sort of farming community.

Victor Manuel Ramírez Rivera: The Man of La Boca

The story of La Boca Lagunillas starts with one family

I first heard of Victor Ramirez when my neighbors came together to make repairs to the roads between Majahua and La Boca. It was said that we needed to include him in our planning. Okay. He was spoken of as if he were a judge. It turns out that, in some ways, he is. Víctor Ramirez lives in La Boca, and for years he’s been someone people go to when they have squabbles or when they want to get something done. His connections to Saladita, Lagunillas, Troncones, Pantla and La Unión run deep. He made sure we got the equipment we needed for the roadwork.

Angélica Pena Gonzalez: a.k.a. Angie

A photographer whose work channels a fierceness and power she calls “high frequency energy”

I first spotted Angie’s work at Hacienda Plaza in Saladita, her portraits of female surfers conveying a power that had little to do with surfing or beauty or sensuality—there was a presence to the participants that made them seem more like warriors, anything but laid-back “surfer girls”. After I noticed her work, I learned Angie called herself an “artivist”. I also started seeing her regularly at Hacienda Plaza, leading workshops and working on projects, by herself and with other people. We sat down together last week and talked for about an hour about her past and her present.

Santa María Rivera: Community, One Beat at a Time

The founder of Noches Lucidas, an electronic music festival based in Seattle and Troncones, talks about his motivations and joys

I first learned about Noches Lucidas in the summer of 2022, from some young surfers who said they were going dancing at Amor Tropical. A few days later they told me the music was fun and that they got home just before dawn. This year, during Semana Santa, two seventy-year-olds asked me how long the electronic music festival at Costa Brava was going to be around. They went one night and they loved it. I asked, “Which festival?” And they said, “Noches Lucidas”. Hmmm. Same event; same reaction from two very different age groups. What is Noches Lucidas? Answering that led me to its organizer, a DJ named Santa Maria. It turns out he lives in Troncones.

Elvis “Aikeke” Rose: Music is Vibration

When good teachers speak, you discover how much there is to learn

I met Aikeke in the street in the Centro in Zihuatanejo almost five years ago. He was outside his music school, waiting for a student. He struck me as an interesting guy, and I thought it odd that I would meet him. I don’t play music, but I like talking to teachers. Especially good teachers. They see and hear the world differently than most of us do. It turns out Aikeke has quite a number of students who live in Troncones. When I heard his school was having a recital at La Mexicana (April 4) and that he was struggling to make a higher rent, I went to talk to him. Googling him before going led me into a world of calypso, soca and reggaeton drumming I know nothing about. He’s clearly a master of those beats. And he really does hear the world differently. Meet Aikeke [AH-kī-kī].

Xochil Alvarez Saunier: I Feel Safe Here

28-year-old entrepreneur has found “home” for herself and created a destination for other women

When the curvy wall for El Muro in La Pequeña was being built nine years ago, people wondered “What is that?”. The construction took a different approach, its crews using superadobe bags to create the wall’s framework. That legacy of “a different approach” persists today with El Muro becoming a popular place for retreats, particularly for women. That movement is being led by a young lifestyle and hospitality entrepreneur who has made La Pequeña and El Muro “home”. Meet Xochil Alvarez Saunier.

Caren Judith Díaz Rentería: La Comisaria

Working behind the scenes to make changes in her community

When a small bridge between Majahua and La Boca collapsed last winter, local officials made an appeal to La Unión for assistance. With no bridge, there was no way to go between Troncones and Saladita without going to the highway, which is a time-suck and a safety risk, especially for people on motorcycles. One official took charge of making sure all the procedures were followed and that La Unión made good on its promises. Meet Caren Judith Díaz Rentería, the comisaria of Brisas del Mar, who at 30, already knows the ins and outs of getting things done.

Patricia Fernández Suárez: Mexico Surf Film Festival Director

Nine short questions, nine fun answers

I wanted to get some insight on the Mexico Surf Film Festival beyond press releases, research, facts and “official” interviews. I sent Patricia Fernández Suárez, the festival’s managing director, nine short questions by email. She responded with nine short answers, full of emotion, emojis and exclamation points. Nice. She also sent me a schedule of events. Perfect. Here’s how the festival sets up: 11 short surf films go up on the screen this Thursday in Playa La Saladita. 11 more do it Friday in Troncones. The judges’ finalists go for prizes Saturday in Zihua. A full schedule of activities for each day can be found below, after the interview.

Arturo Ayala Maciel: Get Tranquilo

A national bodyboard champion talks about learning to surf, ocean safety and the competition he’s bringing to Troncones

I don’t know Arturo very well, but I see him in Troncones a lot. He’s the surf instructor with the mountain of surf boards on top of his taxi. He’s got good vibes. When Juan Suazo told me there was a bodyboard competition coming to Troncones, he sent me to Arturo to get more information. I knew Juan was a national champion. I didn’t know Arturo was one, too. Arturo said the event [March 21 and 22] was being organized by the municipal surf and rescue league of La Unión. I asked who I could talk to at the league. I found out he is the president.

Barbara Lindlan: Always a Teacher

The founder of the Troncones Primary School library looks back at finding her way

You gotta interview Barbara Lindlan. You gotta interview Barbara Lindlan. I kept hearing that over and over again. But no one could really tell me why, other than that she’d started the first library in Troncones. I’ve never been so unprepared for an interview. Barbara doesn’t show up on the Internet. There’s no history to read. No pictures on Google. When I finally met her, I was struck by her energy, and not just her physical presence and fitness. Her vitality and her curiosity are boundless. She started asking me questions before I ever got to ask her one. I had no idea she was 90. And now I know why I had to interview her.

Ana Aguilar Aguirre: Anitya

A New Generation Connecting to Saladita

When you know, you know. Ana Aguilar discovered Saladita on a surf trip after the first year of the pandemic. She’s stayed. She found a quality of life that matched her heart. A marine biologist, a sustainable farmer, a surf-wear entrepreneur and a yoga teacher, she’s become someone people look to for her experience, her creativity and her gentle way. She’s been embraced throughout Saladita as Anitya [pronounced “Anita”].

Doña Matilde: It Wasn’t Easy

The move to Troncones required a lot of patience and work—there was nothing here

Life was hard for the families who were re-settled here in 1976 by the governor of Guerrero. No houses. No water. No work. Somehow, they made it through and created a village that’s known for its determination and tranquility. Enedino Sanchez told me Doña Matilde knew the stories of how that came to pass. I went to see her. Members of her family were there when I interviewed her. I was nervous about having them listen. I was glad when they joined in.

Corky Carroll: Stoked

The world’s most famous surf instructor now lives and paints in Ixtapa

Surfer. Musician. Artist. Writer. Designer. Announcer. Teacher. Talents many aspire to. How about being the first pro surfer? Or having your first album become a benchmark for surf music? Or being part of one of the most famous ad campaigns ever? Miller Lite’s “Tastes Great, Less Filling”. And loving it all. That’s Corky Carroll. He’s been “out there, on it” since the early 1960s, doing what he needs to do to make a living. To the rest of us, it looks like fun. Bitchin. Crazy. Cool. And it was, until his heart gave him trouble. That’s when Corky had to give up a good life in Saladita. What’s a seventy-some-year-old guy to do? Paint? Sell his work online? What?

Jesús Santana Morales: Coach Chucho

A talented Troncones-born athlete passes on lessons to the next generation

“How you play the game is how you do everything” is something coaches say. Whether that’s true or not clearly depends more on the individual than on the task at hand. What is true is that coaching kids is a privilege. Good coaches understand that—that coaching is an opportunity to teach kids how to be good teammates, how to prepare each other to get through difficult situations and how to make sure no one feels left behind. Coach Chucho is a good coach.

C.J. Ananda Page: The Present Moment

An internationally acclaimed teacher/guide looks to her past, present and future

Troncones’ Present Moment, the “yoga hotel” on the beach road, recently celebrated its 20th anniversary. I caught up with co-founder C.J. Ananda Page while she was here last month, gathering with her teachers and students. I stopped by their celebration and found C.J. firmly being one of the group, another person seated at a round table. No crown. No fanfare. No head of the table. A few days later, we sat together on the beach at Present Moment. She’s still an owner. She likes it here. She may be coming back.

Ventura Manzanares Garcia: "They Call Me Ventura"

After 50 years in Troncones, he’s become a fixture on Main Street and one of the last of his generation

He’s known in Troncones by one name. Ventura. You can find him on Main Street most days, on his ATV, between Materiales Troncones and his house next to the pharmacy. Sometimes you’ll see him covered in dust, coming back from checking on his cows south of town. At 80, he has more energy than people who are decades younger, and he’s one of the few “settlers” who came to Troncones as an adult, with a family. He remembers Troncones before electricity arrived, before there was a hardware store or a pharmacy, before his sons and daughters helped him build the Troncones of today.

Meta: The Real Mari Carmen Hernandez

A legendary international artist relies on Troncones for inspiration

I was wrong. When I first met Meta, the artist formerly known as Mari Carmen Hernández Álvarez, she came off as icy and distant. Little did I know, she was nervous about having so many people at her “sunset club” benefit for Las Hermanas. She rarely hosts large parties because people end up wandering through her sanctuary, her studio, where she’s created works that have found homes in museums and private collections. And her name? She signs her work in her initials and her quick MCHA looked like META to a gallery in Paris. The name Meta seemed like a way to stand out, decades before Facebook took it on and muddied its meaning. She answered my first question with a warm wit. The ice melted immediately.

Super Maria Solis: A Toda Madre

Troncones’ first comisaria owns the only store in town with two parrots and two ATMs

When it comes to grocery stores, Troncones has them all. Mini-súper. Miscelánea. Abarrotes. General stores selling snacks, fruits, beverages and household essentials. There are four on Main Street, from the top of the hill to the T. Of the four, only one has the same woman there, day after day. Meet Maria of Mini Súper de Maria. She’s glamorous. She’s funny. She’s serious. She’s kind. She’s real. She’s watching you even when you think she’s not.

WINTER RAMOS: MAN ABOUT TOWN

Looking at the ins and outs of real estate and life in Troncones from the beach

Wherever you go, there he is. Winter Ramos. A man on the go in a place where it’s hard to get almost anything done. One day, I saw him on his motorcycle in La Boca in the morning, then, sitting with a group of people at Pacifico in Troncones mid-day and, later on, shopping with his kids in Zihuatanejo that same afternoon. Maybe we have the same interests? Maybe similar schedules? Maybe, but I don’t run a restaurant, a hotel and the largest real estate company in town. It’s no wonder he speaks in short sentences. He saves his energy for doing other things.

J. Santos Jaime Sánchez: More Lessons

Part Two

In Part One, Santos took us through his upbringing, how he made his way into education through a lot of hard work and little bit of good luck. He’d grown up poor, the son of a fisherman, and he wanted to have steadier economic circumstances for himself and his own family. Not only did Santos become a teacher, and a fixture in the Troncones Primary School for 25 years, he’s also recently earned his doctorate in education. He has a unique perspective on education and culture in Mexico.

William Mertz: Artist & Naturalist

Whether it’s a bird, a spider or a snake, there’s one guy to go to in Troncones who knows exactly what you’ve got; it’s likely he has a drawing or a photo of the one he found

I first “met” William through Facebook on the original Troncones-Let’s Chat. He was the administrator of that group as it grew rapidly in the late 20-teens and early 20-twenties. There were a few members who wouldn’t play nice. William shut it down—not the few members—he shut down the whole group. People wouldn’t be kind, so he put an end to his being a part of it; he put an end to anyone being subjected to nonsense. I liked that.

J. Santos Jaime Sánchez: Lessons Learned

Part One

Good teachers are easy to learn from. They inspire you; they get you to think about the world differently; they make the learning fun; they set you off, curious to learn more. That’s Santos. When Aura wanted to take Spanish lessons, Santos arrived at our house carrying dominoes and a deck of cards. He doesn’t speak English, but he knows playing encourages connection, communication and conversation. He also knew that by talking over a game, he would discover what Aura needed to learn, where he needed to guide her. Santos is currently working in school administration in Coyuca de Benítez, four hours away, but he still lives in Troncones. He doesn’t want to leave.

Ilianet Nuñez Valdovinos: Surfing Queen

The youngest girl in the Saladita surf becomes a woman people look up to

Mother, wife, restaurant owner, social media star. Those are all roles Saladita’s Ilianet Nuñez Valdovinos wakes up to every morning, but the truth is she’s heading to the beach to surf. That’s where she’s expected. Her people are waiting for her.

NICO SAUCEDO: GYM IS LIFE

A life-long passion becomes a way of connecting in Saladita

It came out of nowhere, a gym, the Hacienda Plaza ground floor being expanded, with brand-new weightlifting and workout equipment coming in. The logo appeared, a stylized “Mana”, and then the people came, jumping, lifting, carrying, stretching, doing burpees and planks, by themselves, with trainers. People of all ages, all sexes, every complexion. It looked like a cool sports camp. I asked, “Who’s running this?” That’s when I first heard the name, “Nico”.

Fanny Rivera Plascencia: For Modern Healing

The wisdom of the ages, cures made from plants, treatments relied on for centuries, right here in Troncones

She walks with a cane, her knee destroyed in a motorcycle accident more than a decade ago. There’s no telling how old she is. When Fanny smiles, she looks younger than her grown daughters, even if her gait leaves her looking older than she is. Her age doesn’t matter. You can tell she knows something you don’t. That’s why you’ve come to see her.

ELFI TEUTSCH: HAPPY ENTREPRENEUR

On-the-go, in and out of the water, making a joyful life

A could-be-anywhere free spirit, Elfi Teutsch chose Troncones as the place to be. Or, perhaps, Troncones chose her. Whichever way that goes, the first time I met Elfie was in the surf, the two of us sharing a large wave, stoked and laughing at our two-person “party wave”. Later, when I needed a board repaired, when I ran out of sunscreen; when I didn’t have any dog treats and when I was at La Cervicheria Troncones wondering what a vegetarian could eat, each time Elfi was there, connecting me to exactly what I needed. There’s no accident in all that–she repairs boards, makes sunscreen, bakes dog treats and helps out at La Cervicheria. Elfi also shapes boards. She’s a creative hands-on business maker and a fixture on the Troncones surf scene.

DEWEY McMILLIN: ESCAPE TO TRONCONES

He came, he saw, he got away from it all and made a difference

He’s smooth. Even his name is smooth. Dewey McMillin. Like a fine blended scotch or a big wave surfer. Dewey McMillin. It’s a name that holds reverence. Especially here in Troncones. It’s widely acknowledged Dewey is responsible for the development of 21st-century Troncones, helping the community attract homeowners from around the world, transforming an isolated village into a legendary destination. In 2019, at Troncones’ annual February Expo Feria (carnival), the community celebrated Dewey’s commitment and tireless work in bringing in the essential infrastructure—for roads, electricity, water—that wasn’t here before. His selling of beachfront lots, in partnership with the community, also brought in jobs—the construction, maintenance and service work needed to sustain a growing resort, and that assure on-going opportunities for local families. A profile of Dewey in The Wall Street Journal, from January 6, 2000, opens with “Former Alaska fisherman Dewey McMillin has done something unique in the world of Mexican beachfront development. He’s made everyone happy.” It also quotes Dewey describing how to create success in business here, saying, “The trick is not to leave your brain at the border.” That’s his kind of smooth.

Enedino Sánchez: Master Gardener, Quiet Hero, the spirit of troncones

Anytime you admire a garden in Troncones, chances are it’s been touched by the hands of Enedino Sanchez. Anytime you go to a fundraiser in Troncones for someone in need, chances are he’s one of the organizers.

As the owner of a picturesque vine-covered laundromat set in the middle of an always-in-bloom nursery, Enedino Sanchez is well-known in Troncones, Truth is, he’s counted on for more than clean clothes and big bougainvillea. A member of the church, an advocate for public transportation, education and water management, and a caregiver to his family and neighbors, Enedino embodies the spirit of service that’s needed for a small town to thrive. His commitment and dedication have helped shape and sustain the character of Troncones.

El Chirunguito de Fran Makes MB100

Troncones beachside restaurant named one of Mexico’s best

When he opened El Chiruguito de Fran in early 2024, Fran López was looking to do something different, both for himself and for Troncones, bringing a touch of the Mediterranean to the Pacific. He never imagined “his beach place” would be named one of Mexico’s best 100 restaurants—its delicacies presented in a stylish oceanfront restaurant, offering elegance in the sand.

FROM FARM TO TRONCONES, WEEKLY

Gente Viva offers organic canastas every Thursday

The permaculture farm at eco-resort Playa Viva, a vibrant part of our local food culture, has become a stand-alone venture, with a new name––Gente Viva

Seven volunteers standing by a utility vehicle on the cleared jungle road

La Fajina 2026

Majahua, La Boca and Lagunillas turn out to clear out summer’s jungle

Community is more than a word on this part of the coast. It’s a way of life. That’s especially true in Majahua where 130-some people rely on each other for services you would expect to come from the state or municipality. As the primary route connecting Troncones, Lagunillas, La Boca and Saladita, and a place where the fishing boats come in, life in Majahua depends on local transportation being able to come and go without too much trouble. Every year, the summer rains awaken the jungle which then starts to close Majahua off from the north and east—from Saladita and Federal Highway 200—and every fall, the residents of Majahua get out their chain saws, machetes and weedos [weed-whackers] and clear the way again. That clean-up is known as “La Fajina”, literally, the task, or “La Limpieza”, simply, the clean up.

The Gardens at The Inn

The making of an oasis requires a desire for simplicity, a bit of experimentation and constant adjustment—as well as patience

Some people go to The Inn at Manzanillo Bay for the Wagyu Burger, some go for cocktails and the sunset view, or to watch surfers take off on waves over the rocks. There’s so much to escape into that it’s easy to miss the garden you’re in—it doesn’t shout or shine or stand out—it’s a backdrop that’s barely there. Then again, there’s the lawn. That’s truly out of the ordinary. It catches the eye because lawns are rare here. But being above Manzanillo Bay—and seeing the Pacific and the coastline extend out for forty or fifty miles to the north—humbles the lawn. It blends in because there’s so much beyond it. In some ways, the whole garden is like that. It makes its presence known in the fact it doesn’t distract. It waits to be noticed.

The 2027 Mexico Surf Film Festival is coming

A call for films, and an in-person workshop this week, open up festival activities; screenings are set for Saladita and Zihuatanejo in early March

I saw the Mexico Surf Film Festival (MSFF) had opened its submission portal on FilmFreeway.com, so I reached out to Jorge Luis Salgado Banda, its Director of Community Liaison and Surf Culture, to see what was new for the festival this coming year. MSFF has grown from being a folksy happening in Saladita in 2023 to being a creative force along Guerrero’s Costa Grande and beyond—over 1,500 people attended its screenings in person last year, and its films were streamed over one million times online. The tireless effort and surf-cool of Jorge and festival co-founder, and Managing Director, Patricia Fernández Suárez has a lot to do with its success and growth. The waves were glassy and fun the morning we got together, maybe that’s why our mid-day conversation went so easily.

Troncones’ Water, Part One

A Q & A with Alberto Solís Hernández

Water is precious in Troncones, whether it’s drinking water or water for household use. Unlike Saladita, Lagunillas, Buena Vista and Pantla there isn’t a nearby river or an underground aquifer to provide the town what it needs. And the population explosion of the last two decades has strained what it has. There isn’t one person who knows everything there is to know about the household or tap water in Troncones. Responsibility for regulating the flow of water belongs to “the ejido”, a community collective that manages Troncones’ natural resources. Every month, I go to the Ejido House and pay for the water we use, and every month Alberto Solis Hernández is there. I thought I’d start finding out about Troncones’ water from him. I’m imagining there’ll be a Part Two.

Boogie Boarding Ain’t for Weenies

A reflection on surfing, with a little help from a friend

I met a guy who I wanted to interview for La Onda Troncones. Decades ago, he and some avant-garde theater friends took simple Sony Walkman technology and transformed it into a new method for museum goers to learn about the art they’re seeing. There was no “playing small” with their idea. They revolutionized the visitor experience at some of the most famous museums around the world. At 75 years old, he’s now living part-time in Troncones planning and preparing for what he wants to do next. There’s no way he’s retiring. He wouldn’t know how. But my new friend didn’t want to talk about himself. He didn’t want to do an interview. As we got to talking about surfing and boogie boarding, he kept describing them in terms I hadn’t heard before. I got it—I’ll get him to go boogie boarding with me, and I’ll write about it. I wasn’t ready for what happened next.

La Majahua: A Place Like No Other #2

A continuing series on the magic of Majahua

Describing what’s so alluring about Majahua is hard. There’s so much to talk about. The estuary. The beachside restaurants. The fishing fleet. The empty beach. When I first came to visit this area, I was struck by the immediacy of Majahua—how close to the street the buildings were and how narrow the road was—I felt like I was in everyone’s living room. That said, one of the most attractive things about Majahua is its isolation. It’s so much on its own that it’s almost like a state of mind, a place set apart from everything around i

La Boca Through Omar’s Eyes

Environmentalist and nature guide creates a documentary of a local habitat

One of the most precious resources of our area is its natural beauty—seemingly unspoiled land and sea—barely touched by human development, construction and debris. That’s starting to change as Troncones and Saladita expand out from their centers, and encroach more and more on the estuary at La Boca Lagunillas. Omar Sierra Gutiérrez knows the area around the estuary well. He leads tours daily for Costa Nativa, taking the nature-curious along the lagoon and up into the mountains. This winter, Omar and a few friends created a short film—a sort of tour of La Boca Lagunillas—revealing the places and people he appreciates, and featuring Rosalio Villegas Taveras, “Chalio”, the king of the iguanas.

Santu Blooms

Rooted in Troncones—and now growing throughout Mexico and the United States—Santu is flowering and gaining attention across the international beauty industry

When I met Alicia Nogales and Angelique Van Wyk in December, they described how their shared passion for self-care, daily rituals and life-appreciation evolved into Santu Beauty, their Troncones-based skin-care brand. What’s happened since, in just five months, speaks to the two years of planning they put in before their launch. You can now order Santu products online within Mexico and have them delivered to you anywhere in the country. That online buying experience has been the norm in the United States for a while, but now two U.S. retailers are adding Santu products to their beauty lines. And that’s not all. Their products have started to win industry awards and their garden in Troncones is about to bear fruit.

Go For It: Surf Films from Around the World

Mexico Surf Film Festival arrives in Saladita, Troncones and Zihuatanejo on March 26, 27 and 28, with outdoor screenings (and more) each night

There are surf contests. There are beach parties. And then there is the Mexico Surf Film Festival—a showcase of 22 short surf films over three nights—a blend of local nightlife and international films that celebrate surf culture. Don’t let the relaxed vibes fool you. This is the end of a demanding competition.

Here Come the Letters

A country-wide mark of community pride is coming to Troncones, Majahua and La Saladita

All across Mexico, giant, colorful letters spell out the name of their location. They stand in plazas, on embankments, at town entrances and in front of beaches and mountains. Travelers recognize them instantly as a go-to spot to take photos. Residents pose with them, too. They are known as letras monumentales—monumental letters—and over the past two decades they’ve become one of Mexico’s most recognizable civic symbols. Those letters will soon be part of our local landscape.

Humanimal Fest Goes On the Road

Surfers for Strays Offers Good Music, Good Vibes for a Good Cause in Saladita, Troncones and Zihuatanejo

Local animal care/spay & neuter non-profit Surfers for Strays is in the midst of planning its third annual spring festival—a scrappy-heartfelt-slightly improvised community event—a unique reggae concert, surf gathering, kids’ workshop, grassroots fundraiser—to held in Saladita, Troncones and Zihuatanejo on three consecutive nights in late March. It’s a lot. But why not? It’s a good time—part road show, part music festival, part education platform, part animal-welfare fundraiser—each part a reminder that in this part of the world everything is connected.

Mantras in Motion

For the past two weeks, Troncones’ Casa Escondido has hosted dancers and musicians from around the world

Many cultures combine song and dance, chanting and movement, to create a transcendent community experience. It’s a practice as age-old as it is modern. For example, the line-dancing popular in American country music today can trace its roots back centuries, to early European folk traditions. In ancient Persia, Greece and India, dances were ways of teaching, of telling stories, honoring gods. That was and is true in the tribes of the Americas, too. Currently, “ecstatic dance” is a craze in Tulum, Mexico City and Zipolite, young people meeting, twirling and shaking to a vibrational sound bath, no shoes, no alcohol and no phones. In Troncones, all those traditions come together in an annual two-week retreat—a dance leader training followed by a dance camp.

The Sisters of the Gala

A Simple Fundraising Idea Leads Troncones towards a New Future

On Thursday, February 12th, Casa St. George will host the grandest event of the Troncones winter social season—the Las Hermanas annual gala. This gathering is the group’s tenth celebration, a fundraiser to help follow through on a commitment to “provide opportunities through education for local women and children”. While opportunity may be its mission, stoking the imagination and creativity of the community may be Las Hermanas’ legacy. That’s true even in how the gala works—you don’t have to be there in person to make a difference. I sat down with Las Hermanas president Ann Merritt and gala organizer Mariana Salas to learn more.

Breads, Kings, Baby Jesus and Tamales

Monday, February 2nd, marks a special day throughout Mexico and there’s a fun celebration at Café Cuattro in Troncones

On January 6th, I happened to be in Café Cuattro when the staff started cutting up some sort of cake. Everyone took a different approach when they got the knife in their hands—twirls, curtseys, bows, a flourish of some sort—always laughter. I’d seen those big cakes before, but never knew what they were about or what’s inside. On my way out, I saw what looked like little bones poking out from around the cake. I had to ask.

On the Beach at La Boca

An escape, a dream, a work in progress

A pop-up is typically a short-term “thing”, a brand or company taking over a location to promote itself differently, create a different experience. Pop-up. It’s a good word. Descriptive. Explosive. Sudden. I heard someone use it to describe what’s happening on the beach at the La Boca surf spot, where a surf shop/restaurant started appearing a little bit at a time last spring. I went to see what it was all about last week. It’s no pop-up. It’s a world of fun, being built to last.

Reel Scenes from Majahua

Photos from yesterday’s fishing tournament courtesy of Bob Celecia and Aura Winarick

12 pangas left Majahua early Sunday morning, 40-some fisherman setting out for sailfish and a good time. Among the boats and crews were fishermen of all ages from Majahua, Troncones, La Boca and Saladita. Tournament organizer Antonio Berber said, "We’d like to see this become an annual event for the local community. Part of the plan here was to get the community and its kids out on the water. We did that today, and I’m going to start planning for next year right away. I’d like to see if we can make this a three-day event that involves all aspects of the community.”

APCAT 2005

A letter from the APCAT board from 20+ years ago

APCAT is the de facto Troncones Homeowners Association. It's a community group made up mostly of people from other countries. Its formal name in Spanish is Asociacion Para la Conservacion Ambiental de Troncones, hence, APCAT. The organization’s name in English translates as the Association for the Environmental Conservation of Troncones. When I came across this letter from the 2005 APCAT board, I thought presenting it here “as is”, with a few photos from back then, would make a good time capsule for some, and give others who may not know Troncones’ extranjero history a look at how it developed. This was written 20 years ago. It’s published here with no edits.

Rooted in Love: Rooted in Troncones

Santu Beauty blooms into a global brand

It’s like something out of a Troncones fairy tale. Two people come together and find they have a shared interest. In fact, it’s more than one. It’s a whole set of ideas about self-care, daily rituals and life-appreciation that neither of them expected would be anything other than something they mulled over quietly on their own. The notion that their passions could be “more” took on new meaning when they decided to launch a brand called Santu.

INTRODUCING LA ONDA FREE CLASSIFIEDS

Small ads, big connections

There’s a new place to find what you need—and share what you’ve got.

SKATE PARK REFRESH

New paint, new murals and new skaters in Troncones this week as artists, kids, Comex, La Unión, Sectur and Tres Santos come together

It may not be getting the action it used to get, but the Troncones skate park is a place where the younger members of the community have gathered for at least 20 years. Lorena Castañeda, manager of Hotel Tres Santos, is making sure it’s cared for so the next generation can continue to ollie, grind and slide.

The New Place, South

A dreamworld carved out of a hillside, Riviera Troncones creates a new sort of development

Late last year the dump trucks, bulldozers and backhoes started heading toward Troncones South, past the new cliffside houses, down toward Buena Vista. A big boulevard was cut towards the mountain. The rumors started flying. Then, this summer, a bunch of Ferraris, Lamborghinis, Maseratis and Porches, plus a Mercedes AMG and an Audi R8, rolled through town, stopping at Lo Sereno before heading down to a beach palapa in front of the new boulevard. Some of those cars run $200,000 USD and more. What’s going on?

The Back Way to Saladita

Over the river, through La Boca and into the future

The last five years have brought a tremendous amount of development to Troncones and its surrounding area. New houses, planned communities and condo projects are re-shaping the landscape, the culture, la onda. What’s next? Where will the growth go? What will it bring? How to prepare for what’s coming? There’s a new approach coming from La Unión, Lagunillas and from the community.

Riad San Cristóbal: A Happy Accident

A modern house on the hill above Mi Jardin becomes designer Christine Peters' joy

It’s hard to build a house anywhere. In Troncones, the challenges can seem insurmountable especially when things get lost in translation or twisted by expectation. Those snafus often lead to on-the-spot creativity and new connections.

Surfonomics: It's more than a wave

Developers & environmentalists come together to bring surf films to Troncones & Saladita

Protecting the local wave spots that attract visitors and sustain the year-round economy is important to more than just surfers; it’s called “surfonomics”, a quality-of-life conversation that’s happening here and around the world

PAVING THE WAY

Majahua’s main road gets re-done; the community looks ahead

The village of Majahua, long known for its dusty road, distinctive fishingfleet, feet-in-the-sand restaurants, hidden surf breaks and slow pace of life, has had a makeover this summer. A brand new concrete road, complete with safety curbs and access ramps, now covers the ancient lumpy gravel from the entrance of the Punta Majahua condo all the way past the local primary school and the entrance to Piedecito de Cielo restaurant.